... as Darcy remarks in Pride and Prejudice. As I explained in And A Star To Steer Her By, I have just spent nearly two weeks sailing in a brigantine around Vanuatu. One of the constant themes of the voyage was the dancing, which greeted us on every island. The social, spiritual and political framework of these societies is called kastom, and the dancing is always referred to as kastom dancing. In fact, some of the dancing, and more especially the singing, we saw was clearly the product of marketing men and tourist authorities. On several islands, the song “Welcome, welcome, warmly welcome” was tirelessly and repetitively dinned into us, and in one place a different welcome song was set to the tune of God Save The Queen (in spite of its name, Soren Larsen is a British ship)!
But some of the dancing was both excellent and original, although my photographs will only bear the shadow of a witness to it. A unique feature of these islands is the water dancing, performed only by women; indeed the men profess not to know how it is done. A group of women stand in the sea above their knees, and clap in a highly coordinated way. They clap beneath the water and above it, they clap in the spume and the splash, and they beat the surface with their hands. The whole is intensely coordinated percussion which is briefly very impressive, although I suspect it lacks the range and variety for a long performance; the ladies make all the water sounds you can imagine, but also a deep resonant sound which none of us could explain (or replicate, when we tried ourselves!). Can a physicist help, please: could it possibly be a cavitation effect, whatever that is?
On the tiny island of Ra, we witnessed a sacred snake dance; this always makes me a little uncomfortable, because it was not a sacred occasion, and I imagine we would resent a suggestion that we conduct Easter Mass or the Coronation for the convenience of this week’s busload of tourists from the other side of the world? But these people seem genuinely to want to perform, and they are the local villagers themselves – there is no-one else – so there is no question of a special troop of actors enacting a gutted or spiced up tourist version. And there is also the economic question: these people are extremely remote, and have few opportunities to earn money, which they need for schooling and other services and supplies (though they seemed mainly to rely on local produce for building materials, food etc, and live in what a colleague called affluent subsistence). In some of the Banks Islands, the visit of the Soren was the first by a ship of any size – the odd private yacht makes it up here – for over six months, and we carried supplies for them from Port Vila and Luganville.
But the snake dance, to return to my moutons, is very impressive. A small troupe of musicians stand in the centre, and sing and play small drums held for them by boys, and beat a sunken wooden drum in the sand. The snake dancers emerge from three directions, and chase back and forth round in tight circles, running, stamping, and tuning. It’s hard to give a real impression of the dynamism of the dance, but one can imagine it being very powerful indeed by night and a fire, compared with the calm of our tourist performance on a sunny beach.
Finally - and this is hardly a dance at all, since most of the women kneel or squat in two rows facing each other, clapping rhythmically and in doing so, make patterns with their partners’ hands and arms, reminiscent of a very sophisticated version of the schoolyard game.