Wider yet: Petts Wood to Hayes

For our third section of the London Loop, Roy and I had a longer day planned, almost 12 miles, and a visit en route to a notable and famous house.  We met at Petts Wood station early on a very cold morning, but for the first time, in brilliant sunshine.  We left Petts Wood and walked down a depressing shopping street, quickly leaving it for urban parkland of Jubilee Park and Crofton Woods. We came to Farnborough, which our book thought a lovely village, but I feel the author was over-influenced by the idea of a coaching inn (not exactly a rarity on the major roads out of London) and a ridiculously twee and over–ornate old smithy.  We pushed rapidly on, passing through the churchyard of St Giles the Abbott, a pleasant church with a mighty Yew, and were once more among fields and woods, although we eventually left the true and narrow way of the London Loop itself to detour to the village of Downe, home to Charles Darwin.

We arrived at Downe at lunchtime – repaired to the George and Dragon for a splendid plate of fish and chips – and then made our way across the fields to Downe House, Charles Darwin’s home for 40 years, and now in the guardianship of English Heritage.  He came here, hypochondriac or invalid, to escape the noise and social pressures of London, and stayed for the rest of his life.  Curiously for a man who had sailed around the world on the tiny Beagle, Darwin called the countryside of Downe "the extreme verge of the world"!  The place is interesting to see – it’s rather a pleasant house, in a lovely location, and still wonderfully away from it all considering its proximity to London – but, as so often, fails to convey anything really interesting or useful about its famous inhabitant.  A desk, even the great Darwin’s desk, is just a desk (I know, I’m hopelessly insensitive to atmosphere), and no different because one of the most influential books of all time was written there!  However, I have read much about Darwin and about this house, so I was very pleased to add a layer of detail to my impressions, and the ground floor rooms are attractive and faithful to their arrangement when Darwin was there (upstairs is exhibition space).

  
Out in the garden is another treat for those who can feel the history in stones and gardens (and, yes, a little bit for me too); you can walk down through the kitchen garden to the “sand walk”, a footpath of some 200 yards or perhaps more with the shape of a noose on the end of a rope.  Here Darwin walked for exercise and undisturbed thought; here he pondered on The Origin of Species, and later on his final work, The Formation of Vegetable Mould through the Action of Worms. Nowadays, those who follow in his footsteps are unlikely to influence the world in quite so dramatic a way, and very likely to see and hear the planes from nearby Biggin Hill airfield!

The afternoon was pushing on when we had finished at Downe House, so we struck off at a sharp pace down country lanes and then across more fields and pleasant woods, this time in the grounds of Holwood House.  We came across the (now ruined) oak where Wilberforce and Pitt discussed a bill to end the slave trade around 1788, and the formal bench to commemorate their conversation, overlooking attractive Keston Vale.  (The ambition was eventually realised in 1807, postponed because of the Napoleonic Wars).  Down through Fishponds, on to  
West Wickham Common, again notable for oaks and byelaws – see the photograph below -  another bylaw forbids you from disturbing volunteers (militia) at training, or men playing cricket.  Home from Hayes station, in spite of Roy’s determined effort to lead us in the wrong direction at the last.  Best day of the walk so far, and the longest!

 

Comments

[Lindsay]

Harriet - are you really a Darwin, by any chance!?

[Lindsay]

All lunches are paid for - on this occasion, with 12 muddy miles!

[Harriet]

I lived in Downe till I was four and still go there from time to time. Sounds like a lovely walk you had.

[Cornflower]

I think this walk is just an excuse to go out for hearty lunches!
I'm interested to read your impressions of Downe as I recall quoting Darwin's grand-daughter (Gwen Raverat)on the house to you ages ago. She loved it with an intense passion and remembered every detail vividly.