A few weeks ago, I wrote about Tim Robinson’s Stones of Aran: Pilgrimage in a post called Island pilgrimage. Pilgrimage is about his imaginary walk around the coast (not imaginary, because he undoubtedly walked all around the coast many times over several years, but imaginary because it is described as one walk, continuous and leisurely). He wrote a much larger companion volume called Labyrinths, which describes the interior. I loved his language so much, and his careful, joyously detailed approach to landscape and history, that I filled a whole post from reading a few chapters. I can’t tell you everything that I really liked about this book, but I invite you to join me in following him along the south coast of Aran, uninhabited and rocky, perhaps as far as the north eastern end with its remote and rocky islets.
His detailed descriptions of the great forts of Duchathair and Dun Aonghasa, the latter with its concentric semi-circles surrounding a great enclosure backed by cliffs, are marvels all of their own. Archaeology cannot tell us who built them or why, but Robinson conjures up a really impressive physical sense of place. But the lack of firm knowledge, and the failure of all obvious hypothesis (if a fort, who was the enemy, and how did they manage without water?) frustrates him:
I have failed adequately to be in this strange place, this knot of stone from which the sky has broken out. So I promise to come back and try again, to approach it from a different angle, take it by storm or by moonlight, bring a measuring tape or a bottle of wine.
The islanders had few resources, so were skilled in taking birds and eggs from precipitous cliffs, including guillemot, puffin and other auks, and cormorant, just as they do along the west coast of Scotland. But the meat of these birds, though highly prized, is reputedly tough, fatty and gamey, and too much can be too much. So in a marvellous phrase for the nausea or distaste brought on by surfeit, the islanders refer to:
blas an seachtu crosain – the taste of the seventh razorbill.
G K Chesterton remarks somewhere that “the Irish are the people God made mad, For all their wars are merry and all their songs are sad”; and I have at last found out why their wars are merry. A local account of “the first battle in Ireland”, between descendants of Noah’s son Japhet and more Irish heroes, tells us that it lasted a week, and “not a man was slain there, because it was a magic battle”!
At one point, Robinson explains some local names in terms of land divisions – what in England might be Longacre or Church Hundred – and the words, and the social context, are fascinating. First, each townland – the land belonging to each town, and typically giving a fair proportion of good land and wild rocky cliff by being extended right across the island in a broad strip – is divided into carrows, each subdivided into catrons, which in turn are formed of croggeries. These are anglicized versions of ceathru, cartur, and cnagaire respectively, but I will use the “english” versions. Carrow means a quarter, although most of the townships have six of them, and there are four catrons to a carrow, and four croggeries to a catron – so a croggery is one ninety-sixth of a townland (in Aran that is; it would be one sixty-fourth elsewhere), and a townland is about 1800 acres, although it can be bigger if there is a lot of bare rock (as there often is on Aran). And, at the bottom of the scale, there is a description of what a croggery meant in practice: it is as much land as could support a cow with her calf, a horse, some sheep for their wool, and sufficient potatoes for one family – although the reference to potatoes gives away the fact that this is essentially a modern description of a mediaeval measure. But the words are magic enough for me, although I cannot help thinking that the 16 – 18 acres of a croggery was probably pretty mean allowance for a large family in an inhospitable and largely infertile place like Aran.
One of the great myths of Aran – though like all Irish myths, it is completely true – is the Land Leaguers’ desperate attack on one O’Flaherty, who they regarded as a land grabber and a threat to the smallholders. So in 1881, they rounded up his cattle, blindfolded them, and herded them over the cliffs into the sea. “One or two”, remarks Robinson, “said that it would have been fair enough to throw the landlords over the cliff, but it was a shame to treat the innocent beasts so.” And he tells the delicious story of O’Flaherty leaving the island to go to court on the mainland, seeking compensation. An unsympathetic priest said “And may you never come back”, to which a bystander said “Amen”. The curate, facing up to the cruel intent of his words, but still solicitous of the spiritual health of his parishioner, rebuked the bystander, saying “That’s a terrible thing you’ve done, saying Amen to a curse”! Even today, Robinson, says, the islanders feel the shame of the deed: Ba mhor an naire e. Ba mhor an peaca e – a great shame it was. A great sin it was. (I wonder if peaca, a Gaelic word, shares a root with peccare, the Latin verb to sin?).
But I am only half way round the island with Robinson, and I must stop. If you want to go further, you must read the books, and how better to do that than to visit Aran or Arainn yourself?