A half-day's leave last week, and a nine mile walk in the sunshine from Finsbury Park to West Ham - leaving North London, and entering Docklands, with the smell of the Thames ever nearer.
I started at Manor House, and after a short walk through the park, joined the New River, which I followed on a great loop for over a mile, ending up passing the two reservoirs which the river (really a carefully engineered canal) has supplied since 1613, and finishing by The Castle. The Castle is an extraordinarily fanciful building, now a climbing centre, but originally a water company pump house.
Only five miles from central London, and you can see the space and the greenery that the New River and the reservoirs generate. The river itself is clean as far as the water goes, but there's quite a lot of rubbish - the flow is very steady, it only drops 2 inches every mile, and there are frequent run-offs for excess water. So there's little flushing action (a metaphor that become relevant later), and the steep banks put off bird life. So this seems a pleasant artery, but it's a little neglected by even those nearby, I suspect.
Above, The Castle with a heron on guard, and below, the brass insignia of the original owner of this architectural fantasy. They were proud of public works in those days, although many of the public works were private.
Through Clissold Park into Stoke Newington, less than four miles from Charing Cross, the closest this walk gets. The High Street is notable for its Defoe pub, as the author of Robinson Crusoe took refuge here (maybe, I think, because he was a Dissenter of some sort, and was excluded, either legally or socially, from London itself). Robinson Crusoe is based on the true story of Alexander Selkirk, but lacks any kind of verisimilitude, though it's a jolly good yarn for pre-teenage and teenage boys. There is an amusing and informative essay about this (Why the "Single Print of a Foot"?) in John Sutherland's Can Jane Eyre Be Happy?, which I thoroughly recommend to all interested in nineteenth century English literature - short essays about mistakes, difficulties and irrelevancies in literature, which will enlighten and entertain you, and make you realise that you don't read the texts as closely as you think you do! (As a reward for reading about Defoe, you can read the next essay, and find out where Fanny Hill kept her contraceptives - essential literary knowledge.)
On into the cemetery in Stoke Newington, a slightly wild area of trees, graves and sun, featuring the founder of the Salvation Army, "General" Booth, and Issac Watts (When I survey the Wondrous Cross), and many others. Note how confident they were of Booth's destination after death!
Leaving Stoke Newington, I passed a mosque converted from a row of Edwardian terraced houses, then headed through Springfield Park, being used for filming, with the odd effect that a First World War army officer and his lady were reading The Times of 2007 surrounded by children and mothers playing. Then out into Walthamstow Marshes, and a long stretch of wide greenery, built up on the western side, but expansive across march and meadow right across the Lea valley.
A couple of miles of this, then into the world of the urban canal, with warehouses and locks - at Old Ford Locks, where I swung east, round the corner of the Olympic Park (nothing there yet, but much
promise, and a lot of bright blue fence). I walked along the Greenway, a path a few feet above the scrapyards and waste of east London, conscious that I was walking on top of the world's largest sewage pipe, a monstrous cloaca leading to yet another pumping station, the Byzantine Abbey Mills, above, which did over a hundred years sterling service in clearing London of its waste. (I am indebted to Anne and Dave for the photograph, as my own were unusable - I hope they don't mind, but I couldn't ask as there is no contact point on their posting. But there are lots of great pix, so visit if you'd like to see more of this Victorian engineering masterpiece).
I ended with a short walk to West Ham station and a tube home, right across London. Next week, the final leg north of the Thames, as I head for Woolwich.