In St Petersburg, we visited three main churches: St Isaac’s cathedral in the centre, the Cathedral of Peter and Paul in the fort of the same name, and the Church of the Saviour on the blood; we also saw Kazan cathedral several times a day, as our hotel was just round the corner, with its heavy homage to St Peter's in Rome in the form of the curving colonnades round its western plaza. Many other churches were passed by or seen from a distance, gems awaiting another visit. This is a long post, but do yourself a favour and don't miss the pix at the bottom!
When Peter the Great founded the city, in the
early decades of the eighteenth century, he was determined that it would be a great city, quickly growing with fine stone buildings, but that it would also be a very western city. So instead of the onion domes of the Orthodox tradition, and the higgeldy piggeldy streets and lanes of a medieval city, this was to be a planned metropolis, with broad avenues, clear vistas, and western buildings. This vision has largely survived, and with the canals and rivers has created a unique cityscape.
The two great cathedrals we visited – are there are plenty of others – are firmly in the baroque tradition, one (Peter and Paul) with a splendid, slender spire, and one (St Isaac’s) with a great dome of gold raised on a drum. Both of these, and the equally remarkable spire on the Admiralty, are seen continually as you walk around St Petersburg, down the broad roads called ‘prospects’, in-between crowded houses in small alleyways, and towering over the normal city of five storeys.
The first group of photographs shows St Isaac’s in the centre of the Fontanka area of the city; the great dome towering over the streets, and the inside of the dome; and the violent blue and green of the columns in the altar screen.
The second group shows the Peter and Paul Cathedral in the Fort of the Peter and Paul across the Neva from the main centre, but within the fort that was the first building when Peter first took this land from the Swedes and established his vision of a new, western Russia; the great spire and wind vane, the tombs of the Tsars, and a taste of the baroque.
But the third church is a rebuke to Peter’s western vision, and is, even in the late nineteenth century, a riot of Orthodox tradition. This is the Church of the Saviour on the Blood, a curious title it owes to the fact that this is a memorial church to the assassinated Alexander II, built so carefully over the spot where he was killed that the tabernacle is over the cobble stones that were stained with his blood. To achieve this, the church had to be built out slightly into the canal. The exterior is a riot of onion domes, golden, striped and studded with colour, of different heights so that the external view is always asymmetrical – and further adorned with the arms of all the cities and provinces of Russia, to show the whole nation in mourning for the Tsar; the interior is wholly covered in golden mosaic, completely visually overwhelmingly. The photographs show the exterior along the canal and the domes in close up, the interior and some detail. It is not, to my eyes, an attractive church, but it has riotous energy and life, and it is hard not to be seduced by its confidence.